Advice on Analog to Digital Conversion

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I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
editing--just straight transfer.

Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.

I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
have not yet purchased a DVD burner.

I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
them?

Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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"MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
> editing--just straight transfer.

Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.

>
> Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
> process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.

You can edit later in DVD Author.

>
> I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
> conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
> have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>
> I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
> Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
> them?
>
> Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
> with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
> recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
 
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"Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>> editing--just straight transfer.
>
> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.

Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.

The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited. He wants
the video at highest quality. Stand alone recorders transcode video to mpeg
and burn video DVDs. This entails significant compresion, which lowers
video quality, and results in a format that can only be edited with great
difficulty and subsequent quality loss.


>
>>
>> Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
>> process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>
> You can edit later in DVD Author.
>
>>
>> I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
>> conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
>> have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>>
>> I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
>> Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
>> them?
>>
>> Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
>> with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
>> recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>>
>
>
 
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"PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:39um6aF5f9jj9U1@individual.net...
>
> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
> news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>
>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>
> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>
> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.

He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?


>He wants the video at highest quality.

DV 25 mbit second is highest?


>Stand alone recorders transcode video to mpeg and burn video DVDs. This
>entails significant compresion, which lowers video quality, and results in
>a format that can only be edited with great difficulty and subsequent
>quality loss.
>
>
>>
>>>
>>> Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
>>> process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>>
>> You can edit later in DVD Author.
>>
>>>
>>> I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
>>> conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
>>> have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>>>
>>> I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
>>> Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
>>> them?
>>>
>>> Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
>>> with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
>>> recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
 
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"Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
news:113knkahghg3qec@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:39um6aF5f9jj9U1@individual.net...
>>
>> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
>> news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>
>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>
>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>
>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>
> He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?

No, I can read. Evidently you can't. Here's what the OP said:

"I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital age
(specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw footage to
DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no editing--just straight
transfer.

Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long process
of editing into themed, authored DVDs."

Let's parse it out -- he'd like to ARCHIVE video to DVD. Then he'd like to
use the DVD as a MASTER so that he can EDIT them into AUTHORED DVDs.

1. Archive video to DVD.
2. Edit the video on the DVD.
3. Create an authored DVD after editing.

Now, here's what I wrote:

Standalone recorders transcode analog video to mpeg. Now, maybe you don't
know this, but the compression scheme used by mpeg uses a master frame
followed by a number of other frames in which only the differences from the
master frame are recorded. This makes doing anything but non-frame-accurate
cuts editing extremely difficult, because all intermediate frames must be
derived from the master frame and any transitions, corrections or effects
require that the whole sequence be re-rendered. This results in degraded
video, which is why no one interested in standard-definition video quality
edits in mpeg.

Of course, we're not done yet. In order to do what you propose, for the OP
to edit, he will need to convert the VOB files on the DVD to mpeg (not too
big a deal) if he's going to try to edit in the format (which, as I've
explained, is a very poor approach), or, he will need to convert the VOB
files to a format which does not use intermediate, calculated frames, e.g.
dv-encoded avi, which all good editing programs will accept. Of course, in
doing so, he introduces an additional, 2nd transcoding step. And, finally,
once he has edited his video, he will need to re-transcode back to mpeg, for
a third transcoding step. At each transcoding step, he will lose video
quality.

Now do you understand?


>
>
>>He wants the video at highest quality.
>
> DV 25 mbit second is highest?

DV-25 would probably be fine for his purposes. How much disk space do you
think he has?

Oh, and one other question:

Why is the ignorance and arrogance always seem to go hand-in-hand?

>
>
>>Stand alone recorders transcode video to mpeg and burn video DVDs. This
>>entails significant compresion, which lowers video quality, and results in
>>a format that can only be edited with great difficulty and subsequent
>>quality loss.
>>
>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
>>>> process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>>>
>>> You can edit later in DVD Author.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
>>>> conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
>>>> have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>>>>
>>>> I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
>>>> Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
>>>> them?
>>>>
>>>> Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
>>>> with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
>>>> recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
 
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"PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:39vht6F6267l6U1@individual.net...
>
> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
> news:113knkahghg3qec@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>> "PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:39um6aF5f9jj9U1@individual.net...
>>>
>>> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
>>> news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>>>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>>
>>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>>
>>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>>
>>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>>
>> He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?
>
> No, I can read. Evidently you can't. Here's what the OP said:
>
> "I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital age
> (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw footage
> to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no editing--just straight
> transfer.
>
> Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
> process of editing into themed, authored DVDs."
>
> Let's parse it out -- he'd like to ARCHIVE video to DVD. Then he'd like
> to use the DVD as a MASTER so that he can EDIT them into AUTHORED DVDs.
>
> 1. Archive video to DVD.
> 2. Edit the video on the DVD.
> 3. Create an authored DVD after editing.
>
> Now, here's what I wrote:
>
> Standalone recorders transcode analog video to mpeg. Now, maybe you don't
> know this, but the compression scheme used by mpeg uses a master frame
> followed by a number of other frames in which only the differences from
> the master frame are recorded. This makes doing anything but
> non-frame-accurate cuts editing extremely difficult, because all
> intermediate frames must be derived from the master frame and any
> transitions, corrections or effects require that the whole sequence be
> re-rendered. This results in degraded video, which is why no one
> interested in standard-definition video quality edits in mpeg.
>
> Of course, we're not done yet. In order to do what you propose, for the
> OP to edit, he will need to convert the VOB files on the DVD to mpeg (not
> too big a deal) if he's going to try to edit in the format (which, as I've
> explained, is a very poor approach), or, he will need to convert the VOB
> files to a format which does not use intermediate, calculated frames, e.g.
> dv-encoded avi, which all good editing programs will accept. Of course,
> in doing so, he introduces an additional, 2nd transcoding step. And,
> finally, once he has edited his video, he will need to re-transcode back
> to mpeg, for a third transcoding step. At each transcoding step, he will
> lose video quality.
>
> Now do you understand?
>
>
>>
>>
>>>He wants the video at highest quality.
>>
>> DV 25 mbit second is highest?
>
> DV-25 would probably be fine for his purposes. How much disk space do you
> think he has?
>
> Oh, and one other question:
>
> Why is the ignorance and arrogance always seem to go hand-in-hand?


This is a question you know the answer to all to well, since you evidence
both traits invariably.
 
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PS

I suggest you read Susan's response, since it is correct.
 
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"Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
news:113l5531p80aj7c@corp.supernews.com...
> PS
>
> I suggest you read Susan's response, since it is correct.

Then perhaps you or Susan can suggest how the OP will edit the video that he
captures.

(I'll ignore the schoolyard response from your other post).

>
>
 
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In article <113knkahghg3qec@corp.supernews.com>,
"Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> writes:
>
> "PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:39um6aF5f9jj9U1@individual.net...
>>
>> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
>> news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>
>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>
>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>
>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>
> He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?
>
He did say that he wanted to capture to DVD, subsequently edit
and then produce a final DVD. Actually, it isn't a really good
idea to do two concatenated (term of art, means multiple compression
decompression) of low rate MPEG2 -- DVD is a little too limited
at about 8-9mbps for the highest quality.

>
>
>>He wants the video at highest quality.
>
> DV 25 mbit second is highest?
>
DV 25mbit with good quality (current) encoders is damned good -- but
not quite as good as the nearly transparent DV50 or DigiBeta. Claiming
that DVD is 'highest quality' would be utilizing alot more poetic
license than claiming that DV25 is 'highest' quality.

One big quality issue is that neither DV25 nor MPEG2 like to see much noise
in the video, but DV25 with current generation encoders can deal with
more random content. It would make sense to use a super high quality
DV25 encoder (e.g. Canopus ADVC300), and then subsequently use a non-realtime
(non-causal filtering) MPEG2 encoder with lots of noise reduction. You
can get the benefits of noise reduction with almost NO artifacting and
no quality loss relative to consumer tape formats. Almost as good as using
'best quality' DV25 encoding, using almost unlimited MPEG2 bandwidth (e.g.
15mbps or faster) can be useful to allow the MPEG2 encoder to deal better
with totally random input (noise in consumer video.)

* When recording noisy video onto MPEG2, if there isn't a heap of
noise reduction, there is much less advantage to the inter-frame
compression. It is still more effective than DV25, but also more
artifact prone than just to ignore inter-frame information and just
use DV25 compression. (AFAIR, DV25 still tries to take advantage of
intra-frame similarity by optionally taking advantage of the similarity
of two fields, but the payload capability of DV25 allows for more
noise data.) When ignoring the noise in DCT domain compression, there
is some artifacting that makes it sometimes look worse than other
kinds of information limiting.


Perhaps the biggest theoretical loss of quality when mastering DV25 onto
MPEG2 is the mismatch of the 4:1:1 to 4:2:0 color sampling. This is almost
a non-issue given composite or color-under (consumer analog) video sources.

Basically, using DV25 before MPEG2 does limit the chroma response from
3+MHz to 1.4-1.5MHz... This is significantly greater chroma than what
can be supplied by Hi8, 8mm, BetaMax, SuperBeta, EDBeta, SVHS, laser disk,
OTA video, CED Video or any other common consumer video source. Consumer
video sources tend to be limited to approx 500kHz (or less) of color
data per component, except LD which can theoretically approach 1.2-1.5MHz
in both components, if some rules are bent. Otherwise, the chroma
bandwidth would tend to be limited to approx 1.2MHz and (afair 0.5MHz?)
(Using widerband LD chroma might introduce some artifacting on decoders
that aren't prepared to handle it.)

It is true that the realtime MPEG2 encoders (used in set-top DVD recorders)_
can be pretty good, but to get the maximum, noise free quality, it can
be better to use offline (often very slow) noise reduction. This slowness
can gain significant quality because of the potential for non-causal
filtering. (Offline noise reduction can look forwards and backwards in
time, while real time processing TENDS to be more limited.)

It isn't WRONG to use a set-top DVD recorder, and if one is used, then
just max-out the quality settings, and be careful about comet-tailing
(or other motion artifacts) when enabling the (very much needed)
online, real-time video noise reduction for MPEG2 encoding of noisy
consumer video.

John
 
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"John S. Dyson" <toor@iquest.net> wrote in message
news:d1dqcu$2gka$1@news.iquest.net...
> In article <113knkahghg3qec@corp.supernews.com>,
> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> writes:
>>
>> "PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:39um6aF5f9jj9U1@individual.net...
>>>
>>> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
>>> news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>>>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>>
>>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>>
>>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>>
>>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>>
>> He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?
>>
> He did say that he wanted to capture to DVD, subsequently edit
> and then produce a final DVD. Actually, it isn't a really good
> idea to do two concatenated (term of art, means multiple compression
> decompression) of low rate MPEG2 -- DVD is a little too limited
> at about 8-9mbps for the highest quality.
>
>>
>>
>>>He wants the video at highest quality.
>>
>> DV 25 mbit second is highest?
>>
> DV 25mbit with good quality (current) encoders is damned good -- but
> not quite as good as the nearly transparent DV50 or DigiBeta. Claiming
> that DVD is 'highest quality' would be utilizing alot more poetic
> license than claiming that DV25 is 'highest' quality.
>
> One big quality issue is that neither DV25 nor MPEG2 like to see much
> noise
> in the video, but DV25 with current generation encoders can deal with
> more random content. It would make sense to use a super high quality
> DV25 encoder (e.g. Canopus ADVC300), and then subsequently use a
> non-realtime
> (non-causal filtering) MPEG2 encoder with lots of noise reduction. You
> can get the benefits of noise reduction with almost NO artifacting and
> no quality loss relative to consumer tape formats. Almost as good as
> using
> 'best quality' DV25 encoding, using almost unlimited MPEG2 bandwidth (e.g.
> 15mbps or faster) can be useful to allow the MPEG2 encoder to deal better
> with totally random input (noise in consumer video.)
>
> * When recording noisy video onto MPEG2, if there isn't a heap of
> noise reduction, there is much less advantage to the inter-frame
> compression. It is still more effective than DV25, but also more
> artifact prone than just to ignore inter-frame information and just
> use DV25 compression. (AFAIR, DV25 still tries to take advantage of
> intra-frame similarity by optionally taking advantage of the similarity
> of two fields, but the payload capability of DV25 allows for more
> noise data.) When ignoring the noise in DCT domain compression, there
> is some artifacting that makes it sometimes look worse than other
> kinds of information limiting.
>
>
> Perhaps the biggest theoretical loss of quality when mastering DV25 onto
> MPEG2 is the mismatch of the 4:1:1 to 4:2:0 color sampling. This is
> almost
> a non-issue given composite or color-under (consumer analog) video
> sources.
>
> Basically, using DV25 before MPEG2 does limit the chroma response from
> 3+MHz to 1.4-1.5MHz... This is significantly greater chroma than what
> can be supplied by Hi8, 8mm, BetaMax, SuperBeta, EDBeta, SVHS, laser disk,
> OTA video, CED Video or any other common consumer video source. Consumer
> video sources tend to be limited to approx 500kHz (or less) of color
> data per component, except LD which can theoretically approach 1.2-1.5MHz
> in both components, if some rules are bent. Otherwise, the chroma
> bandwidth would tend to be limited to approx 1.2MHz and (afair 0.5MHz?)
> (Using widerband LD chroma might introduce some artifacting on decoders
> that aren't prepared to handle it.)
>
> It is true that the realtime MPEG2 encoders (used in set-top DVD
> recorders)_
> can be pretty good, but to get the maximum, noise free quality, it can
> be better to use offline (often very slow) noise reduction. This slowness
> can gain significant quality because of the potential for non-causal
> filtering. (Offline noise reduction can look forwards and backwards in
> time, while real time processing TENDS to be more limited.)
>
> It isn't WRONG to use a set-top DVD recorder, and if one is used, then
> just max-out the quality settings, and be careful about comet-tailing
> (or other motion artifacts) when enabling the (very much needed)
> online, real-time video noise reduction for MPEG2 encoding of noisy
> consumer video.
>
> John

I do not disagree. But this individual is not going to research all of the
data, spend months of testing Codecs, etc. The set top boxes have various
forms of noise reduction geared for NTSC. Many of these are equal to very
expensive proprietary approaches. I presumed these variables in my
statement.
 
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In article <113kr4j95en5078@corp.supernews.com>,
"Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> writes:
>
> "John S. Dyson" <toor@iquest.net> wrote in message
> news:d1dqcu$2gka$1@news.iquest.net...
>> In article <113knkahghg3qec@corp.supernews.com>,
>> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> writes:
>>>
>>> "PTRAVEL" <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:39um6aF5f9jj9U1@individual.net...
>>>>
>>>> "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:113k515dk1qoo35@corp.supernews.com...
>>>>>
>>>>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:1111101564.390811.167540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>>>>> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>>>
>>>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>>>
>>>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>>>
>>>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>>>
>>> He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?
>>>
>> He did say that he wanted to capture to DVD, subsequently edit
>> and then produce a final DVD. Actually, it isn't a really good
>> idea to do two concatenated (term of art, means multiple compression
>> decompression) of low rate MPEG2 -- DVD is a little too limited
>> at about 8-9mbps for the highest quality.
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>He wants the video at highest quality.
>>>
>>> DV 25 mbit second is highest?
>>>
>> DV 25mbit with good quality (current) encoders is damned good -- but
>> not quite as good as the nearly transparent DV50 or DigiBeta. Claiming
>> that DVD is 'highest quality' would be utilizing alot more poetic
>> license than claiming that DV25 is 'highest' quality.
>>
>> One big quality issue is that neither DV25 nor MPEG2 like to see much
>> noise
>> in the video, but DV25 with current generation encoders can deal with
>> more random content. It would make sense to use a super high quality
>> DV25 encoder (e.g. Canopus ADVC300), and then subsequently use a
>> non-realtime
>> (non-causal filtering) MPEG2 encoder with lots of noise reduction. You
>> can get the benefits of noise reduction with almost NO artifacting and
>> no quality loss relative to consumer tape formats. Almost as good as
>> using
>> 'best quality' DV25 encoding, using almost unlimited MPEG2 bandwidth (e.g.
>> 15mbps or faster) can be useful to allow the MPEG2 encoder to deal better
>> with totally random input (noise in consumer video.)
>>
>> * When recording noisy video onto MPEG2, if there isn't a heap of
>> noise reduction, there is much less advantage to the inter-frame
>> compression. It is still more effective than DV25, but also more
>> artifact prone than just to ignore inter-frame information and just
>> use DV25 compression. (AFAIR, DV25 still tries to take advantage of
>> intra-frame similarity by optionally taking advantage of the similarity
>> of two fields, but the payload capability of DV25 allows for more
>> noise data.) When ignoring the noise in DCT domain compression, there
>> is some artifacting that makes it sometimes look worse than other
>> kinds of information limiting.
>>
>>
>> Perhaps the biggest theoretical loss of quality when mastering DV25 onto
>> MPEG2 is the mismatch of the 4:1:1 to 4:2:0 color sampling. This is
>> almost
>> a non-issue given composite or color-under (consumer analog) video
>> sources.
>>
>> Basically, using DV25 before MPEG2 does limit the chroma response from
>> 3+MHz to 1.4-1.5MHz... This is significantly greater chroma than what
>> can be supplied by Hi8, 8mm, BetaMax, SuperBeta, EDBeta, SVHS, laser disk,
>> OTA video, CED Video or any other common consumer video source. Consumer
>> video sources tend to be limited to approx 500kHz (or less) of color
>> data per component, except LD which can theoretically approach 1.2-1.5MHz
>> in both components, if some rules are bent. Otherwise, the chroma
>> bandwidth would tend to be limited to approx 1.2MHz and (afair 0.5MHz?)
>> (Using widerband LD chroma might introduce some artifacting on decoders
>> that aren't prepared to handle it.)
>>
>> It is true that the realtime MPEG2 encoders (used in set-top DVD
>> recorders)_
>> can be pretty good, but to get the maximum, noise free quality, it can
>> be better to use offline (often very slow) noise reduction. This slowness
>> can gain significant quality because of the potential for non-causal
>> filtering. (Offline noise reduction can look forwards and backwards in
>> time, while real time processing TENDS to be more limited.)
>>
>> It isn't WRONG to use a set-top DVD recorder, and if one is used, then
>> just max-out the quality settings, and be careful about comet-tailing
>> (or other motion artifacts) when enabling the (very much needed)
>> online, real-time video noise reduction for MPEG2 encoding of noisy
>> consumer video.
>>
>> John
>
> I do not disagree. But this individual is not going to research all of the
> data, spend months of testing Codecs, etc. The set top boxes have various
> forms of noise reduction geared for NTSC. Many of these are equal to very
> expensive proprietary approaches. I presumed these variables in my
> statement.
>
I have seen some examples of motion artifacting when using real time noise
reduction before MPEG2 compression... This is one reason why I tend to resist
that scheme. It seems like alot of people are tolerant of noise reduction
artifacts that I am not tolerant of. When I made my suggestion, I was
trying to make sure that the 'master' copies have the least damage possible.
If a practical master is made to 'DVD', then the noise reduction artifacts
(LARGE amounts of noise reduction are often very necessary for MPEG2 encoding)
will be imprinted on the signal forever.

If this wasn't essentially a 'master' copy, then noise reduction artifacts
onto a distribution copy is of less consequence.

Indeed, if the original poster is interested in a 'quick' solution, then
a set-top DVD recorder will necessarily be the best (but non-optimal
quality) solution. On the other hand, using a compression scheme that
can withstand some video noise (definitely not MPEG2), and with reasonably
limited real-time video noise reduction (e.g. the ADVC300) and timebase
correction, then the slightly imperfect, but minimally damaged master
images can be DV25 format. (Of course, a practical set top DVD recorder has
to have lots of noise reduction and some kind of tolerance of time
base errors, not claiming that a set top DVD recorder is necessarily
lacking features.) One could take the suggestion to an extreme, and
master onto DV50 or DigiBeta, where the master would be minimally
damaged. In fact, that is EXACTLY what I do before mastering onto DV25...

With a minimally damaged DV25 recording, then subsequent non-realtime
noise reduction can produce a nearly artifact free MPEG2 video, probably
significantly better than the MPEG2 master that is produced by the
set-top box. The 'sad' thing is that the damaged MPEG2 master with
a set top box will likely be used (after some editing/processing) to
produce an even more damaged MPEG2 copy. If minimal processing/changes
are made to the master copy while recording onto the distribution
master, then it is possible that the additional artifacts due to recompression
will be limited (hopefully.)

How much damage is the user willing to accept? This depends upon his/her
tolerance to spending time on finding/developing and implementing
a solution to the problem along with simple tolerance to video defects.
Truly, it isn't necessary that video always be perfect.

It is possible that the 'probable' lower quality option of multiple MPEG2
encode/decode cycles will be MORE DESIREABLE than the 'probable' higher
quality option of using reasonably well encoded DV25, and then production
of an MPEG2 product. It is definitely easier to use a set top DVD recorder,
and the results just might be adequate for the user!

In my own case, I cannot stand the motion artifacts that I have seen with
noise reduction before MPEG2 encoding, but on the other hand, my current
setup doesn't produce visible artifacts... (Interestingly, IMO, I can
take a moderate quality LD -- e.g. Cars Heartbeat City, with significant
chroma noise, and produce a DVD that ALMOST looks like NTSC never touched
it, and solid chroma... It looks like a slightly limited bandwidth DVD,
with no significant NTSC footprint or large area chroma noise!!! Most
importantly, no visible comet tailing or odd motion stuttering/smear
artifacting.) Likewise, such feats of magic can be done with original
tape formats also -- except with significantly greater bandwith limits
for 8mm, VHS or Beta/SuperBeta.

John
 
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In article <vgsk31p6dsfon7p1rkan91vjt8gl4dno8l@4ax.com>,
Christopher Pollard <rubbish@cginternet.net> writes:
> On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 20:52:24 -0800, "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote:
>
>> What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>>
>>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>>
>>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>>
>>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>>
>>He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?
>
> AIUI, he wants to save the data on a DVD, but not necessarily one which could be
> played directly. He's just using it as a storage medium.
>
> Why not just save it on a big hard drive instead, then do the editing thing from
> there?
>
Given the large size of hard drives nowadays, that is one reason why DV25
would potentially be superior. The DV25 copy could actually be stored
on a few DVDs, but in relatively less compressed form (and not playable
on DVD player, but usable on PC.)

I actually don't always use my DV25 deck while playing out from the minimally
noise reduced DV50, but record directly using the ADVC300 onto hard disk.

The ADVC300 plus a PC almost equals a fixed media DV deck. In my
case, the DV deck is mostly used to create backups, which could nowadays
instead be multiple DVD-Rs or DVD-RWs.

John
 

Susan

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Apr 8, 2004
249
0
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"MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>editing--just straight transfer.
>
>Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
>process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>
>I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
>conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
>have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>
>I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
>Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
>them?
>
>Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
>with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
>recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi,

Since you have 8mm which you want to eventually put on DVDs, you have
several basic options. NOTE, I would not even think about using CDs.

You could spend a lot of time and effort to capture the 8mm through a
DV converter (DV or D8 camcorder, box or card) to your computer,
transcode to MPG2 and burn to DVD.

You could convert direct to MPG2 on your computer and burn, or

You could use a stand alone DVD recorder.

Since pristine 8mm at SP is limited to about 240 lines of resolution
with lousy color, I would forget about DV and either capture in MPG2
or use a stand alone DVD recorder. However, if you plan to upgrade to
DV anyway, then you could go that route since you'll need the
capability later.

The most important thing when using 8mm or VHS is to maintain the very
best analog signal possible before you digitize. I would make sure
the player is the best you can beg or borrow, that the heads and tapes
are clean, and that you run the analog signal through a time base
corrector and proc amp (to adjust the saturation, hue, contrast,
brightness and sharpness, etc.) BEFORE you digitize. Remember, the
image will never be better than what you capture. Garbage in, garbage
out. All the post processing in the world will never make up for a
lack of care before capturing. The number one cause of lousy picture
quality, OOS and dropped frames with 8mm and VHS is a bad analog
signal.

If you go the MPG2 route, I would definitely not put more than two
hours of video on a DVD if you want to do any editing. It would be
best to limit yourself to one hour of video to a DVD.

A major limitation with MPG2 is repeated and often unintended
recoding. What you want to do is settle on a bitrate and image size
that you use to do all of your capturing, editing and burning, so you
don't end up recoding your video several times.

Finally, (with 8mm video) as long as you stay above 4000 Kbps you are
probably safe using CBR. Certainly, at 6000 or above there is
absolutely no need for VBR.

No "home' burned DVD will play on all set-top DVD players. However,
any newer software/hardware package should be able to burn a DVD-R
disk that will play on most recent players. Some older players and
some combination VHS/DVD players do have problems with almost all
non-commercial DVDs. In that case, only a new DVD player will solve
the problem. On the other hand, some players will play anything you
throw at them. You just have to try and see.

Hope this helps,

Susan
 
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"Alpha" wrote ...

> I suggest you read Susan's response, since it is correct.

Except that it appears to suffer from the fatal flaw that
it completely ignores the OPs requirement for "extensive
editing". (Which Ptravel's response DOES address.)
 
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"Susan" <nospam@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:pfsk31ptbvk6i7japoo3e11uf0spkju75v@4ax.com...
> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>editing--just straight transfer.
>>
>>Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
>>process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>>
>>I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
>>conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
>>have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>>
>>I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
>>Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
>>them?
>>
>>Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
>>with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
>>recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Hi,
>
> Since you have 8mm which you want to eventually put on DVDs, you have
> several basic options. NOTE, I would not even think about using CDs.
>
> You could spend a lot of time and effort to capture the 8mm through a
> DV converter (DV or D8 camcorder, box or card) to your computer,
> transcode to MPG2 and burn to DVD.
>
> You could convert direct to MPG2 on your computer and burn, or
>
> You could use a stand alone DVD recorder.
>
> Since pristine 8mm at SP is limited to about 240 lines of resolution
> with lousy color, I would forget about DV and either capture in MPG2
> or use a stand alone DVD recorder. However, if you plan to upgrade to
> DV anyway, then you could go that route since you'll need the
> capability later.
>
> The most important thing when using 8mm or VHS is to maintain the very
> best analog signal possible before you digitize. I would make sure
> the player is the best you can beg or borrow, that the heads and tapes
> are clean, and that you run the analog signal through a time base
> corrector and proc amp (to adjust the saturation, hue, contrast,
> brightness and sharpness, etc.) BEFORE you digitize. Remember, the
> image will never be better than what you capture. Garbage in, garbage
> out. All the post processing in the world will never make up for a
> lack of care before capturing. The number one cause of lousy picture
> quality, OOS and dropped frames with 8mm and VHS is a bad analog
> signal.
>
> If you go the MPG2 route, I would definitely not put more than two
> hours of video on a DVD if you want to do any editing. It would be
> best to limit yourself to one hour of video to a DVD.
>
> A major limitation with MPG2 is repeated and often unintended
> recoding. What you want to do is settle on a bitrate and image size
> that you use to do all of your capturing, editing and burning, so you
> don't end up recoding your video several times.
>
> Finally, (with 8mm video) as long as you stay above 4000 Kbps you are
> probably safe using CBR. Certainly, at 6000 or above there is
> absolutely no need for VBR.
>
> No "home' burned DVD will play on all set-top DVD players. However,
> any newer software/hardware package should be able to burn a DVD-R
> disk that will play on most recent players. Some older players and
> some combination VHS/DVD players do have problems with almost all
> non-commercial DVDs. In that case, only a new DVD player will solve
> the problem. On the other hand, some players will play anything you
> throw at them. You just have to try and see.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Susan
>

Exactly, but you will never get some of this crowd to view the
issue from the realworld circumstances of the OP, or most others
who will be reading these posts. They will change the issue to, or
use examples that make a case for the benefits of working with
low compression high bandwidth DV. Even using the LD example
is a total misdirection, some laserdisks are made with 1.5 MHz or
even 2 MHz bandwidth for both color components. ( A typical TV
signal is 0.5 to 0.6 MHz)

For non-aerial transmission of video, the 4.2 MHz upper limit does not
apply and luminance information goes up to 5.3 MHz (425 lines) for
laser disks and 7.0 MHz (540 lines) for DVD. This permits the color
signal sidebands to extend 1.5 MHz on both sides of the 3.58 MHz
subcarrier, and even composite video can carry 120 lines of color
resolution. Laser disk programs, which are based on composite video,
can have the same color horizontal resolution as programs transmitted
as S-video. Although S-video standards provide 120 lines of resolution,
some manufacturers use a color decoder for S-video as well as composite
video that has only 60 lines of resolution.

* When recording using any consumer grade VCR; the bandwidth of
the recorded color signal is enough for at most 32 lines. *

For NTSC, the picture occupies approximately 480 of the 512 scan
lines. For broadcasts the portion of a scan line that is visible can hold up
to about 440 dots so a grid 480 high by 440 wide represents the maximum
amount of picture detail possible.

While NTSC broadcasts have about 440 maximum pixels across the
screen (MPA) and NTSC laser disks have about 565, crisp resolution is
probably more like 400 MPA for broadcasts and 500 for laser disk.

A standard (4:3) TV set can be said to have 600 lines of horizontal
resolution.
However if the source material had just 330 lines of resolution you will see
just
330 lines of resolution. A 16:9 aspect ratio TV that can reproduce just 800
dots
across its screen would have 450 lines of horizontal resolution.

For analog video (broadcasts, VHS tape, laser disks) we can think of the
horizontal pixel count as the maximum amount of the finest details that can
be
put on a line and still be distinguished.

To convert between pixels and lines of resolution we must apply the Circle
Rule
in the longer direction (horizontally); after that we always apply the
Extended Kell
factor vertically, and we apply the Extended Kell factor horizontally for
digital video
only. Therefore:

To convert pixels wide to horizontal lines of resolution we divide by the
aspect ratio
and multiply by the Extended Kell factor (=/<0.7).

To convert horizontal lines of resolution to needed pixels we multiply by
the aspect
ratio and divide by the Extended Kell factor.

Please excuse all the tech talk, but it is somewhat necessary to show
how some of the "Pro" posters are really comparing "Apples and Oranges"
to make their points. They put down procedures that work with the "real
world" analog video sources, that most of have to work with, by making
comparisons using pristine high bandwidth DV, as their source. Those of
use working with 4.2.0 don't have the luxury of actual 4.4.4 sources.

Luck;
Ken
 
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On a sunny day (Fri, 18 Mar 2005 00:30:23 -0800) it happened "PTRAVEL"
<ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in <39vht6F6267l6U1@individual.net>:

>Of course, we're not done yet. In order to do what you propose, for the OP
>to edit, he will need to convert the VOB files on the DVD to mpeg (not too
>big a deal)
It is called 'demux' and not 'convert'.

>if he's going to try to edit in the format (which, as I've
>explained, is a very poor approach),
No it is not.

>or, he will need to convert the VOB
>files to a format which does not use intermediate, calculated frames, e.g.
>dv-encoded avi, which all good editing programs will accept.
Please 'all good editing programs' is that vdub only?

>Of course, in
>doing so, he introduces an additional, 2nd transcoding step.
Have you EVER edited a VOB or mpeg2?
It does not have to be re-encoded.
Some mpeg editors allow you to cut 'in' a GOP too, while only re-encoding
that GOP.
In all other cases (cut at GOP) there is zero loss.
MS windows womble mpeg editor, try it.
 
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> >Of course, we're not done yet. In order to do what you propose, for the
OP
> >to edit, he will need to convert the VOB files on the DVD to mpeg (not
too
> >big a deal)
> It is called 'demux' and not 'convert'.

I see where this is going already, we've got a techie who wants to flaunt
his "knowledge".
>
> >if he's going to try to edit in the format (which, as I've
> >explained, is a very poor approach),
> No it is not.

Direct editing in mpeg format is, in _fact_, a poor approach.

> >or, he will need to convert the VOB
> >files to a format which does not use intermediate, calculated frames,
e.g.
> >dv-encoded avi, which all good editing programs will accept.
> Please 'all good editing programs' is that vdub only?

Hardly. Any true NLE fits into that description. And btw, mpeg editors are
not NLE's in any but the most basic, rudimentary sense.

> >Of course, in
> >doing so, he introduces an additional, 2nd transcoding step.
> Have you EVER edited a VOB or mpeg2?
> It does not have to be re-encoded.

If you're doing anything other than a very basic slice and dice, which the
OP is _not_ interested in by the statements:

"What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw footage to DVD (or CD) at the
maximum quality level with no editing--just straight transfer."

and

"Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long process
of editing into themed, authored DVDs."


then there will be _substantial_ re-encoding.


> Some mpeg editors allow you to cut 'in' a GOP too, while only re-encoding
> that GOP.
> In all other cases (cut at GOP) there is zero loss.
> MS windows womble mpeg editor, try it.

Notice the words "maximum quality" in the OP's above statement? If you think
that mpeg encoded data is of higher "quality" than DV or uncompressed avi,
then your technical knowledge of *nix grossly overshadows your ignorance in
even the most basic of video editing concepts.
 
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"Chuck U. Farley" <chuckufarleynot@dyslexia.com> wrote in message
news:_7C_d.38403$c72.4988@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>> >Of course, we're not done yet. In order to do what you propose, for the
> OP
>> >to edit, he will need to convert the VOB files on the DVD to mpeg (not
> too
>> >big a deal)
>> It is called 'demux' and not 'convert'.
>
> I see where this is going already, we've got a techie who wants to flaunt
> his "knowledge".
>>
>> >if he's going to try to edit in the format (which, as I've
>> >explained, is a very poor approach),
>> No it is not.
>
> Direct editing in mpeg format is, in _fact_, a poor approach.
>
>> >or, he will need to convert the VOB
>> >files to a format which does not use intermediate, calculated frames,
> e.g.
>> >dv-encoded avi, which all good editing programs will accept.
>> Please 'all good editing programs' is that vdub only?
>
> Hardly. Any true NLE fits into that description. And btw, mpeg editors are
> not NLE's in any but the most basic, rudimentary sense.
>
>> >Of course, in
>> >doing so, he introduces an additional, 2nd transcoding step.
>> Have you EVER edited a VOB or mpeg2?
>> It does not have to be re-encoded.
>
> If you're doing anything other than a very basic slice and dice, which the
> OP is _not_ interested in by the statements:
>
> "What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw footage to DVD (or CD) at the
> maximum quality level with no editing--just straight transfer."
>
> and
>
> "Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
> process
> of editing into themed, authored DVDs."
>
>
> then there will be _substantial_ re-encoding.
>
>
>> Some mpeg editors allow you to cut 'in' a GOP too, while only re-encoding
>> that GOP.
>> In all other cases (cut at GOP) there is zero loss.
>> MS windows womble mpeg editor, try it.
>
> Notice the words "maximum quality" in the OP's above statement? If you
> think
> that mpeg encoded data is of higher "quality" than DV or uncompressed avi,
> then your technical knowledge of *nix grossly overshadows your ignorance
> in
> even the most basic of video editing concepts.
>
>

We are flaming one another over poor expression by the OP. He is very
unclear about what he considers 'masters' and the phrase 'transfer' is
ambiguous. My interpretation of editing into themed, authored DVDs did not
presume 'extensive editing' (anyway, VideoReDo is available).
 
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"Jan Panteltje" <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111153136.218c1c59112291afcca432ffd004f5bd@teranews...
> On a sunny day (Fri, 18 Mar 2005 00:30:23 -0800) it happened "PTRAVEL"
> <ptravel88-usenet@yahoo.com> wrote in <39vht6F6267l6U1@individual.net>:
>
>>Of course, we're not done yet. In order to do what you propose, for the
>>OP
>>to edit, he will need to convert the VOB files on the DVD to mpeg (not too
>>big a deal)
> It is called 'demux' and not 'convert'.

Yes, so?

>
>>if he's going to try to edit in the format (which, as I've
>>explained, is a very poor approach),
> No it is not.

Yes it is. See, I can do that too.

>
>>or, he will need to convert the VOB
>>files to a format which does not use intermediate, calculated frames, e.g.
>>dv-encoded avi, which all good editing programs will accept.
> Please 'all good editing programs' is that vdub only?

You consider vdub an editing program?

>
>>Of course, in
>>doing so, he introduces an additional, 2nd transcoding step.
> Have you EVER edited a VOB or mpeg2?

Yep.

> It does not have to be re-encoded.
> Some mpeg editors allow you to cut 'in' a GOP too, while only re-encoding
> that GOP.
> In all other cases (cut at GOP) there is zero loss.

You're talking about cuts-only which, obviously, is not what the OP has in
mind, or described in his post. Transitions, effects, corrections have to
be re-rendered. If you understand mpeg, then you'd understand this.

> MS windows womble mpeg editor, try it.

Why? I edit in Premiere, which is a real editor.

>
 
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Alpha is right. Please stop the flames!

Let me try to clarify what I'm looking for.
I would like to transfer my analog tapes to digital AS IS (with no
editing) and with no loss of quality (or as little as is technially
possible). I realize that 8mm consumer grade recordings are a far cry
from pro-level video in terms of image quality. Even so, I want as
little degradation as possible to occur during the A/D conversion. At
this point I neither need nor want any compression at all. These
converted recordings are what I want to use as master/source material
for eventually compiling clips, editing and creating DVDs, etc.

Is it possible to do A/D conversion with no (or little) compression? If
so, what hardware/software would be needed to do the job?

Space is not an issue. Mass storage is relatively cheap these days. I
rather like the idea of storing this raw footage on a large, dedicated
hard drive as was suggested here.

Anyway, thanks to all for your informative ideas/suggestions.

MrTobor
 
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"Ken Maltby" <kmaltby@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Na2dndLInIgDjKbfRVn-ow@giganews.com...
>
> "Susan" <nospam@nospam.net> wrote in message
> news:pfsk31ptbvk6i7japoo3e11uf0spkju75v@4ax.com...
>> "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
>>>age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>editing--just straight transfer.
>>>
>>>Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
>>>process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>>>
>>>I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
>>>conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
>>>have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>>>
>>>I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
>>>Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
>>>them?
>>>
>>>Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
>>>with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
>>>recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Since you have 8mm which you want to eventually put on DVDs, you have
>> several basic options. NOTE, I would not even think about using CDs.
>>
>> You could spend a lot of time and effort to capture the 8mm through a
>> DV converter (DV or D8 camcorder, box or card) to your computer,
>> transcode to MPG2 and burn to DVD.
>>
>> You could convert direct to MPG2 on your computer and burn, or
>>
>> You could use a stand alone DVD recorder.
>>
>> Since pristine 8mm at SP is limited to about 240 lines of resolution
>> with lousy color, I would forget about DV and either capture in MPG2
>> or use a stand alone DVD recorder. However, if you plan to upgrade to
>> DV anyway, then you could go that route since you'll need the
>> capability later.
>>
>> The most important thing when using 8mm or VHS is to maintain the very
>> best analog signal possible before you digitize. I would make sure
>> the player is the best you can beg or borrow, that the heads and tapes
>> are clean, and that you run the analog signal through a time base
>> corrector and proc amp (to adjust the saturation, hue, contrast,
>> brightness and sharpness, etc.) BEFORE you digitize. Remember, the
>> image will never be better than what you capture. Garbage in, garbage
>> out. All the post processing in the world will never make up for a
>> lack of care before capturing. The number one cause of lousy picture
>> quality, OOS and dropped frames with 8mm and VHS is a bad analog
>> signal.
>>
>> If you go the MPG2 route, I would definitely not put more than two
>> hours of video on a DVD if you want to do any editing. It would be
>> best to limit yourself to one hour of video to a DVD.
>>
>> A major limitation with MPG2 is repeated and often unintended
>> recoding. What you want to do is settle on a bitrate and image size
>> that you use to do all of your capturing, editing and burning, so you
>> don't end up recoding your video several times.
>>
>> Finally, (with 8mm video) as long as you stay above 4000 Kbps you are
>> probably safe using CBR. Certainly, at 6000 or above there is
>> absolutely no need for VBR.
>>
>> No "home' burned DVD will play on all set-top DVD players. However,
>> any newer software/hardware package should be able to burn a DVD-R
>> disk that will play on most recent players. Some older players and
>> some combination VHS/DVD players do have problems with almost all
>> non-commercial DVDs. In that case, only a new DVD player will solve
>> the problem. On the other hand, some players will play anything you
>> throw at them. You just have to try and see.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Susan
>>
>
> Exactly, but you will never get some of this crowd to view the
> issue from the realworld circumstances of the OP, or most others
> who will be reading these posts. They will change the issue to, or
> use examples that make a case for the benefits of working with
> low compression high bandwidth DV. Even using the LD example
> is a total misdirection, some laserdisks are made with 1.5 MHz or
> even 2 MHz bandwidth for both color components. ( A typical TV
> signal is 0.5 to 0.6 MHz)
>
> For non-aerial transmission of video, the 4.2 MHz upper limit does not
> apply and luminance information goes up to 5.3 MHz (425 lines) for
> laser disks and 7.0 MHz (540 lines) for DVD. This permits the color
> signal sidebands to extend 1.5 MHz on both sides of the 3.58 MHz
> subcarrier, and even composite video can carry 120 lines of color
> resolution. Laser disk programs, which are based on composite video,
> can have the same color horizontal resolution as programs transmitted
> as S-video. Although S-video standards provide 120 lines of resolution,
> some manufacturers use a color decoder for S-video as well as composite
> video that has only 60 lines of resolution.
>
> * When recording using any consumer grade VCR; the bandwidth of
> the recorded color signal is enough for at most 32 lines. *
>
> For NTSC, the picture occupies approximately 480 of the 512 scan
> lines. For broadcasts the portion of a scan line that is visible can hold
> up
> to about 440 dots so a grid 480 high by 440 wide represents the maximum
> amount of picture detail possible.
>
> While NTSC broadcasts have about 440 maximum pixels across the
> screen (MPA) and NTSC laser disks have about 565, crisp resolution is
> probably more like 400 MPA for broadcasts and 500 for laser disk.
>
> A standard (4:3) TV set can be said to have 600 lines of horizontal
> resolution.
> However if the source material had just 330 lines of resolution you will
> see just
> 330 lines of resolution. A 16:9 aspect ratio TV that can reproduce just
> 800 dots
> across its screen would have 450 lines of horizontal resolution.
>
> For analog video (broadcasts, VHS tape, laser disks) we can think of the
> horizontal pixel count as the maximum amount of the finest details that
> can be
> put on a line and still be distinguished.
>
> To convert between pixels and lines of resolution we must apply the
> Circle Rule
> in the longer direction (horizontally); after that we always apply the
> Extended Kell
> factor vertically, and we apply the Extended Kell factor horizontally for
> digital video
> only. Therefore:
>
> To convert pixels wide to horizontal lines of resolution we divide by the
> aspect ratio
> and multiply by the Extended Kell factor (=/<0.7).
>
> To convert horizontal lines of resolution to needed pixels we multiply by
> the aspect
> ratio and divide by the Extended Kell factor.
>
> Please excuse all the tech talk, but it is somewhat necessary to show
> how some of the "Pro" posters are really comparing "Apples and Oranges"
> to make their points. They put down procedures that work with the "real
> world" analog video sources, that most of have to work with, by making
> comparisons using pristine high bandwidth DV, as their source. Those of
> use working with 4.2.0 don't have the luxury of actual 4.4.4 sources.
>
> Luck;
> Ken

Very impressive. And completely irrelevant.

8mm is low definition, yes. So it is necessary to preserve as much of that
definition as possible. Multiple transcodes to mpeg will reduce the
resolution even further. Capture to DV-25 (or something better if the OP
can afford the disk space) will preserve more of the resolution. Lossless
editing will not degrade the image further. Editing in mpeg will.

And note: Though you are right -- there is some ambiguity in the OP's post,
it is quite clear that he's not talking about cuts-only editing; does
"edited, themed DVDs" really sound like that to you?

Womble, vdub and VideoReDo are not editors in this context, and you know it.

>
>
>
 
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On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 20:52:24 -0800, "Alpha" <logos1@trip.net> wrote:

> What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
>>>> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
>>>> editing--just straight transfer.
>>>
>>> Buy a stand alone recorder...Pioneer or Panasonic.
>>
>> Do NOT buy a stand alone recorder.
>>
>> The OP wants to archive analog video that will later be edited.
>
>He wants DVD. DVD. Brain dead?

AIUI, he wants to save the data on a DVD, but not necessarily one which could be
played directly. He's just using it as a storage medium.

Why not just save it on a big hard drive instead, then do the editing thing from
there?

--
Chris Pollard


CG Internet café, Tagum City, Philippines
http://www.cginternet.net
 
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"MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1111183444.154103.93590@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Alpha is right. Please stop the flames!
>
> Let me try to clarify what I'm looking for.
> I would like to transfer my analog tapes to digital AS IS (with no
> editing) and with no loss of quality (or as little as is technially
> possible). I realize that 8mm consumer grade recordings are a far cry
> from pro-level video in terms of image quality. Even so, I want as
> little degradation as possible to occur during the A/D conversion. At
> this point I neither need nor want any compression at all. These
> converted recordings are what I want to use as master/source material
> for eventually compiling clips, editing and creating DVDs, etc.
>
> Is it possible to do A/D conversion with no (or little) compression? If
> so, what hardware/software would be needed to do the job?
>
> Space is not an issue. Mass storage is relatively cheap these days. I
> rather like the idea of storing this raw footage on a large, dedicated
> hard drive as was suggested here.
>
> Anyway, thanks to all for your informative ideas/suggestions.
>
> MrTobor
>

Perhaps this chart will provide guidance:

http://www.inventa.com.au/compression.htm

As you can see, true uncompressed, vs. various compression techniques are
trade-offs with a large number of variables.
 
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On a sunny day (Fri, 18 Mar 2005 10:10:04 -0500) it happened "Chuck U. Farley"
<chuckufarleynot@dyslexia.com> wrote in
<_7C_d.38403$c72.4988@bignews3.bellsouth.net>:

>If you're doing anything other than a very basic slice and dice, which the
>OP is _not_ interested in by the statements:
>
>"What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw footage to DVD (or CD) at the
>maximum quality level with no editing--just straight transfer."
>
>and
>
>"Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long process
>of editing into themed, authored DVDs."



>then there will be _substantial_ re-encoding.
Well I dunno, 'editing into' may be just cutting out the pieces he wants.

Of cause when you start out DV and have the diskspace, you can edit that.
When somebody asks for 'maximum quality' I look first to see his general
picture of what he wants to do.
I was not under the impression this was going to be a big issue.
Sooner or later it will have to be mpeg2, and then editing is not the problem.
If you want to make cross effects, color changes etc, then decoding MUST
happen in BOTH formats (DV and MPEG2).
If you want to just insert some effects between scenes, then that can be
done in mpeg2 too (without losses).
I dunno about your relationship with DV, but it is already a compressed
format.

So have a reality view :)
 
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With respect to all involved, this thread has gotten way out of hand.
I've copied both of the original posters messages below for reference.

MrTobor, I speak for one person and one person only: myself. View my
comments through that lens.

I use what I would describe as "mainstream" NLE software - the Adobe
Production suite and occassionally Window Movie Maker 2.
I haven't had luck editing MPEG2 files with that software - understandably
because it isn't designed for it - and owing to MPEG2's "GOP" compression.
Google "GOP MPEG2 editing" if you'd like to know more about the subject.

I spent some time looking for MPEG2 editing software (we use WinXP
workstations) but gave up as what I saw didn't compare to the professional
level tools I already had. In the end, I had the source I needed
re-digitized as a DV-AVI and archived on a DVD-ROM (data) disc.

How many tapes do you have exactly? If it's "a few," leaving the files on a
hard drive may be realistic. If it's "hundreds" of tapes, this doesn't seem
practical.

Consider also transferring your exisiting tapes to miniDV (or Digital8)
tapes and archiving on those. Inexpensive, lossless and transferrable to
your computer on an as-needed basis. I have a shelf full of the Digital
tapes for lack of terrabytes of hard drive storage.

You mentioned not having a camera with analog pass through - which model is
it out of curiousity? I picked up a used D8 with analog pass-through for
about $250US and I use it almost entirely for A/D transfers (pass-through to
Firewire).

Also consider, if you're "picking and choosing" bits off tapes as opposed to
using an entire hour long chunk, you don't really need all the extra data
filling up hard drives. Those archived tapes on my shelf might contain 4
hours of actual used footage but I keep two dozen of them anyway in case I
need something slightly different from what I've used in the past.

My 2 cents.

Good luck and please let us know what you end up doing!

Chris





----- Original Message -----
From: "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.video.desktop
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 6:19 PM
Subject: Advice on Analog to Digital Conversion


>I have tons of old 8mm tapes that I'd like to bring into the digital
> age (specifically to DVD). What I'd like to do is transfer all my raw
> footage to DVD (or CD) at the maximum quality level with no
> editing--just straight transfer.
>
> Then, I'd like use those DVDs or CDs as "masters" to begin the long
> process of editing into themed, authored DVDs.
>
> I have a Mini DV camcorder but it does not have A/D passthrough
> conversion capability so I will need a video capture device. Also, I
> have not yet purchased a DVD burner.
>
> I'd like some recommendations please. I've got my eye on some of the
> Pinnacle Studio products for capture. Anyone have any experience with
> them?
>
> Also, I want maximum DVD player compatibility (i.e., play anywhere)
> with regard to final DVD creation. Any software/hardware
> recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>


----- Original Message -----
From: "MrTobor" <tobor8man@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.video.desktop
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: Advice on Analog to Digital Conversion


> Alpha is right. Please stop the flames!
>
> Let me try to clarify what I'm looking for.
> I would like to transfer my analog tapes to digital AS IS (with no
> editing) and with no loss of quality (or as little as is technially
> possible). I realize that 8mm consumer grade recordings are a far cry
> from pro-level video in terms of image quality. Even so, I want as
> little degradation as possible to occur during the A/D conversion. At
> this point I neither need nor want any compression at all. These
> converted recordings are what I want to use as master/source material
> for eventually compiling clips, editing and creating DVDs, etc.
>
> Is it possible to do A/D conversion with no (or little) compression? If
> so, what hardware/software would be needed to do the job?
>
> Space is not an issue. Mass storage is relatively cheap these days. I
> rather like the idea of storing this raw footage on a large, dedicated
> hard drive as was suggested here.
>
> Anyway, thanks to all for your informative ideas/suggestions.
>
> MrTobor
>